Martin Grant
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 3, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Martin Grant's exquisitely tailored clothes have a quiet glamour that's best appreciated up close. No doubt that's why he chose to show his fall collection in the intimate surroundings of the Galerie St. Pere on the Left Bank. The crush of admirers—and this Australian designer has many—made for challenging viewing conditions, but in the end, it was worth the inconvenience.Grant said he was inspired by the sixteenth-century Flemish painter Corneille de Lyon, and as it turns out, that obscure historical reference produced some very current shapes and cuts. The jackets of his silk faille skirt suits, for starters, had this season's teardrop sleeves and tulip lapels, the latter of which he stuffed with tulle (a couturier's trick) for added drama and volume. A black waterproof trench arced out in back, while other coats were trimmed with passementerie and small pom-poms that followed the lines of boleros. That motif continued for evening with a jet-beaded fitted vest that topped a silk ottoman strapless gown. How another after-dark look—a strapless one-piece pantsuit in ivory tweed—relates to the sixteenth century is anybody's guess, but that was an easily overlooked misstep in an otherwise refined fall show.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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