Monique Lhuillier
NEW YORK, February 7, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
New mother Monique Lhuillier designed her fall collection, she said, in a "nesting phase," and though the show didn't move her aesthetic forward, it was good to see the L.A. native feeling at home in the tents, effectively displaying her strengths.Lhuillier loves the nightlife, especially if there's a red carpet involved, and her gowns, as usual, were award-show friendly. A black, re-embroidered lace sheath with an exaggerated collar framing the face was a definite entrance-maker. Tulle shrugs hovered at the shoulders of dresses like puffs of smoke, and a blue corseted trumpet gown with Juliet sleeves had a Cinderella-at-the-ball prettiness. Soft makeup and upswept hair added to the glamorous effect.
The accessories were another story: The less said about the "jewel-on-a-tulle" necklaces the better. Day silhouettes, which included swing coats and bell-sleeve jackets, may well have achieved the "more covered-up look" Lhuillier was after, but there was no hiding their vintage-style heaviness. It would also be nice if the designer traded the sixties for another decade next season. But daywear isn't what people come to Lhuillier for; it's her special way with a gown that keeps them lining up for more.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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