Marios Schwab
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 17, 2006
By Sarah Mower
You have to look carefully to find London's twenty-first century talents. Like Marios Schwab, they're emerging slowly and deliberately from behind the scenes, learning from (or perhaps rebelling against) the mistakes made by their loudmouth nineties forebears. Schwab, though, has just as strong a vision—curvaceously body-seamed cuts, gorgeous fabrics, and meticulously beautiful finishes—as anyone who rocked London with their theatrical antics a decade ago.Right now, young London stylists and editors are buzzing about the short sexy dresses of Versace and Alaïa. Schwab, a Greek/Austrian designer, is one of the few capable of rechanneling that enthusiasm into clothes that don't look embarrassingly retro. His short hourglass dresses in double-knit jersey, silk velvet, or gold and black brocade, come embellished with fronds of gold metalwork that curve around the bust. Other looks bespeak a fascination with the techniques of old-fashioned corsetry: A high-waisted skirt has a girdle panel in the front, and a seemingly stark little black dress turns to reveal a curvy bustle and erotic insets of lace in the small of the back. Schwab is humble—and sensible—enough to participate in a joint show organized by Fashion East, this time in the civilized surroundings of Terence Conran's Bluebird restaurant in Kings Road. Next season he should fly solo.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
