Matthew Williamson
NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
British fashion darling Matthew Williamson, known for his color sense and use of prints, was recently tapped by LVMH to take over the design reins at Emilio Pucci. Perhaps to differentiate his namesake collection from the surely print-heavy one to come, Williamson's fall show was decidedly toned down. "I'm moving away from hippie in favor of a polished elegance," he said backstage.Signs of this shift were visible in a wonderfully collared coat of varying lengths—and in too many variations, the most notable of which were made of a Lurex-shot mohair bouclé. Prints were limited to three—Aztec, floral, and ombré—and worked into simple dresses with layered hems. The layering of camel cashmere jumpers under pretty sequined pieces was a nice touch; ill-fitting maxi skirts were not. The parade of finale dresses, a series of decorative variations on one style, underscored the generally repetitive nature of the show.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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