Kai Kühne
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 3, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Kai Kühne's sophomore show offered him the chance to really define his voice, now that the As Four histrionics have abated. He went about it by concentrating on shape and volume, though without forsaking his signature eccentricities. Lantern and bell sleeves, poufs and tulip skirts bloomed throughout the collection, but he showed them on the awkward stems of bow-tied fetish shoes and against an aural backdrop of German heavy metal.The strengths of this collection were those of his spring presentation: Kühne has a way with a cape-sleeve jacket (rendered for fall in a luxe black angora-cashmere blend), as well as with shirtdresses and jumpsuits. The quality of the craftsmanship was clear throughout, but Kühne, ever exuberant, said that he "wanted life in the construction." This translated, at times, into pieces that were overwrought, like a full bell sleeve accented with accordion pleats. He also showed rather too many variations on the pouf theme.
The most charming version was a soft, floral chiffon with a subtle balloon hem and a sash. A black taffeta tulip dress with an asymmetrical chiffon drape also stood out, and a scene-stealer, in terms of line, was an ensemble of high-waist black pants topped with an off-the-shoulder brown raffia top. Less successful were the shorts and some stiff, gawky blouses. Kühne claims that his designs are driven by his feelings, and this collection found the designer in an expansive mood of creativity. As for his voice? Well, he's still discovering his range.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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