Nicolas Andreas Taralis
February 26, 2006 Paris
There's something precise and Northern European about this designer's way with a tail-coat military jacket, a high-collared shirt, a lean, leather-revered tuxedo, and a pair of skinny pants (shades of Karl Lagerfeld in here somewhere). Taralis' distinctive take on the season's ubiquitous cape is a cloak with sharp shoulders that looks good short, in menswear jacketing fabric, or longer, in gray herringbone. Those piecesas well as a dull-gold lamé blouse with flying sleeves and black, sparkle-flecked evening suitingpass muster as nongirly formalwear. The other side of Taralis, though, comes straight out of the underground Berlin bierkeller: lean, rockin' black denim, crosshatched with a suggestion of bondage straps; sleazily cool patchwork black or gold leather parkas and bombers; ink-stained asymmetric cocoons made of chopped-up sweatshirts. As a whole, it made for a microcosm of the shapes and somber tendencies of the season, with a young point of view that's looking increasingly confident.