Nicolas Andreas Taralis
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 27, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Nicolas Taralis is moving up in the "ones to watch" ratings. A late evening slot meant it was a test of endurance for even the hardiest show-goer, but the audience, dotted with the tired faces of international buyers and editors, held on to witness this young German-Greek designer's third collection. What they saw was, in essence, a cross between masculine tailoring and gritty jeanswear, the emerging generation's representation of the school of Helmut Lang and Hedi Slimane (hardly surprising when you know that Taralis studied under the former in Austria, and worked with the latter in Paris).There's something precise and Northern European about this designer's way with a tail-coat military jacket, a high-collared shirt, a lean, leather-revered tuxedo, and a pair of skinny pants (shades of Karl Lagerfeld in here somewhere). Taralis' distinctive take on the season's ubiquitous cape is a cloak with sharp shoulders that looks good short, in menswear jacketing fabric, or longer, in gray herringbone. Those pieces—as well as a dull-gold lamé blouse with flying sleeves and black, sparkle-flecked evening suiting—pass muster as nongirly formalwear. The other side of Taralis, though, comes straight out of the underground Berlin bierkeller: lean, rockin' black denim, crosshatched with a suggestion of bondage straps; sleazily cool patchwork black or gold leather parkas and bombers; ink-stained asymmetric cocoons made of chopped-up sweatshirts. As a whole, it made for a microcosm of the shapes and somber tendencies of the season, with a young point of view that's looking increasingly confident.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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