Nathan Jenden
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Nathan Jenden has an impressive résumé: educated at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art; work experience with John Galliano and Daryl K; creative director at Diane von Furstenberg. None of that, though, could have prepared him for February 10, 2006—the day that Jenden's wife gave birth to a son on the morning of his solo debut. Happily, the designer seemed to take it all in stride. Fulfilling a long-held dream, he took a bold, confident first step, presenting a collection that was as hard-edged as the venue—the Inn at Irving Place—was precious.Saying he was inspired by "the drama of a Goya silhouette," Jenden opened the show with a ruffled puff-sleeve shirt, stark white over black jodhpurs. He had the most success with his reworking of men's suiting, creating an attractively sharp, lean line; standouts were the jet-beaded jackets, and a tuxedo suit at the close. A reversible jacket and corset pants, while amazing close-up, had less impact on the runway. Evening found the designer veering from the minimal (a tight vest-skirt combo) to the theatrical—but his short infanta dress hit a high note, and the finale dress, with its ruffled sleeves, was satisfyingly graphic. Though it might have benefited from an edit, this was a well-made collection that shows Jenden has a strong voice of his own. Diane von Furstenberg, on hand to cheer her employee's efforts, is not the only one eager to see how he develops.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
A
A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
B
Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
C
Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
D
D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
E
Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
F
Fendi -
G
Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
H
Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
J
J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
K
Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
L
Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
M
Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
N
Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
O
Oscar de la Renta -
P
Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
R
Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
W
Wunderkind -
Y
Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
