Noir

LONDON, February 17, 2006
By Sarah Mower
After an enthusiastic reaction from international buyers last season, Copenhagen's Peter Ingwersen packed up his avant-garde tailoring to stage his first show in London. His sharply focused and beautifully made second collection has echoes of Boudicca and the much lamented Helmut Lang. That's manna for women who crave a mean-cut pantsuit and an empowering way to play with the classic (but never dull) aesthetic of that other great Helmut, the late Mr. Newton.

Of course, living up to the standards of that ultrasophisticated look is a tall order. Tight cutaway jackets, high-neck satin blouses, fine leather pants, and an astrakhan Poiret coat all cut the right silhouette: voluminous top, skinny leg. And the use of midnight blue with black hit a note of the season. Unfortunately the thin, wan 16-year-olds who struggled along the runway crippled by their heels distracted from clothes better suited to 6-foot-tall Nordic power-women. Production values aside, though, this is a collection that's already scoring a direct hit with customers on three continents.

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