February 16, 2006 London
Of course, living up to the standards of that ultrasophisticated look is a tall order. Tight cutaway jackets, high-neck satin blouses, fine leather pants, and an astrakhan Poiret coat all cut the right silhouette: voluminous top, skinny leg. And the use of midnight blue with black hit a note of the season. Unfortunately the thin, wan 16-year-olds who struggled along the runway crippled by their heels distracted from clothes better suited to 6-foot-tall Nordic power-women. Production values aside, though, this is a collection that's already scoring a direct hit with customers on three continents.