February 08, 2006 New York
Despite the influences, the show didn┐t feel referential or vintagey. The designer tweaked spring's flare dress silhouette with mostly engaging additions like cossack collars, keyhole necklines, and peaked shoulders. He also showed some terrific workmanship, especially when he pieced garments together in Deco patterns. A black Deco-print skirt, for example, was constructed in part with zigzag-shaped swatches of the same printed fabricbut in whiteradiating from hips to hem.
Coats and jackets are Melbostad's strength, and this season they are bold, with peaked shoulders and dramatic collars. Sometimes they were worn with high-waist, flowing flared pants, which possessed a distinct Euro sex appeal. His boots aimed for same, but fell a little short. It hardly mattered, though, because all eyes were on the quality and construction of the clothes. This collection marked another step in the slow but sure-footed evolution of Melbostad's vision.