Phi
NEW YORK, February 9, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
There was more than a whiff of Anglomania at Phi today, where one of Andreas Melbostad's points of departure was the work of British designer Ossie Clark. Melbostad began to take an interest in Clark while researching the prints that found their way into last spring's Phi collection. But the English influence goes beyond the sort of decorative devices Ossie favored; it's visible in Melbostad's construction techniques and in the only-for-the-bold, Biba-esque palette of purple and black.Despite the influences, the show didn¿t feel referential or vintagey. The designer tweaked spring's flare dress silhouette with mostly engaging additions like cossack collars, keyhole necklines, and peaked shoulders. He also showed some terrific workmanship, especially when he pieced garments together in Deco patterns. A black Deco-print skirt, for example, was constructed in part with zigzag-shaped swatches of the same printed fabric—but in white—radiating from hips to hem.
Coats and jackets are Melbostad's strength, and this season they are bold, with peaked shoulders and dramatic collars. Sometimes they were worn with high-waist, flowing flared pants, which possessed a distinct Euro sex appeal. His boots aimed for same, but fell a little short. It hardly mattered, though, because all eyes were on the quality and construction of the clothes. This collection marked another step in the slow but sure-footed evolution of Melbostad's vision.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
