Something in the naive and self-deprecating character of Peter Jensen's shows always hits London audiences in their soft spots for parody and fantasy. For fall, this almost evangelically nerdy Danish designer brought smiles to the bleachers with a collection about Helena Rubenstein, her fabulous stash of jewels, and frumpy-couture style. Big on boufed Carmen-rollered hairdos worn with pearl bands, the collection was Jensen's gentle way of renavigating the ubiquitous fifties trend.

Formal matching plaid skirts and kimono-sleeve tops opened the show, followed by forays into "at home" lamé cigarette pants and many of the now inevitable bubble-shaped cocktail dresses and skirts that once made up the wardrobe of a 1950's New York socialite. Jensen also added his own spoofy homage to Madame Rubenstein's extensive jewelry collection by trimming necklines with big chunks of faux emerald and diamond Swarovski crystals. The results were cute and fun, which is precisely what keeps Jensen's customers banging at his door.