February 20, 2006 Milan
Sienna Miller is in Milan and Edie Sedgwick is on everyone's minds, but a post-show Ozbek was quick to point out that his take on the Factory Girl era was much more glamorous. In fact, he had in mind Truman Capote's "swans" at the author's legendary Black and White Ball (several of the mannequins were masked by Philip Treacy). The decoration, though, came straight out of the recent exhibition of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century caftans at Manhattan's Sackler Gallery. The tulip design from a sultan's robe was duplicated in damask for a shift, coat, bag, and boot ensemble, and the patterns of Ottoman tiles were interpreted in black and gold on a short, high-waist, kimono-sleeve shift. There was a youthquake glamour to this notion that carried through to the jeweled necklines and fur-trimmed collars and cuffs. If simplicity was indeed Ozbek's original yardstick for the collection, his congenital inclination toward sheen and surface inevitably disposed him toward a coat in silk, embossed so it gleamed like an oil slick.