Paco Rabanne
PARIS, March 1, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
"Paco Rabanne was always thinking about the next generation, what they would want to wear," said Patrick Robinson, who inherited the design mantle at the French house three seasons ago. In seeking his own answers for a contemporary audience, Robinson looked to a couture collection Rabanne did in the late eighties, one in which he experimented with huge bands of fabric that wrapped any number of ways around his clothes: crisscrossing the torso, circling the waist, slung over the hips. That decade has proven a popular reference point this season, but Robinson's jackets, with their pronounced epaulets, double lapels, patch pockets, and inverted pleats, looked newer than most. No glass ceiling could stand up to those shoulders. And when you consider how elaborately constructed the jackets were, no pants could either, which is why he sagely came up with the collection's sleek leggings.Robinson's banding concept produced some great items, from tailored shirts in soft gray sweatshirt material to a short houndstooth cape with rectangles of fabric draped from just under the bust to the lower back. For evening, the concept was somewhat harder to pull off. Stiff ruffles of fabric that ran up and down the sides of a black sheath came off as slightly tricky, and there was a little too much folding and pintucking on a navy cocktail number. The surface treatments on his dresses, accomplished though they were, threatened to obscure the main attraction—the wearer's body underneath. His tough-chic jackets and coats, on the other hand, showcased it.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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