Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, February 9, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Just when everyone was reaching fashion week saturation, Proenza Schouler's Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez came along, and in a panoply of velvet, ponyskin, leather, and metallic lace, shook the audience out of its Thursday morning malaise. May we suggest that they make this their permanent time slot? Like spring, their fall show was rich with exquisite handworked details, but rendered as it was in a stained-glass palette of magenta, violet, moss green, and black, the effect was more baroque. Except, that is, when it came to the collection's silhouette, which had a strictness that last season's lacked. There was air in a tenting cashmere felt jacket with a cutaway back, but the pencil skirt it was shown with, like nearly everything else, followed the lines of the body. Sexy. But in a rigorous, sophisticated way that some of the designers' youthful peers might do well to learn from.Now, back to that stained-glass concept. McCollough and Hernandez elevated color-blocking to a subtle new plane. Not only did the elbow patches of a collarless coat come in a contrasting hue, so did the yoke, hemline, and darts. Paneling was a recurring motif, too. A silk velvet sheath was overlaid with thick seams to create an intriguing trompe l'oeil effect, while decorative zippers, which also turned up as trim on shoes and booties, replaced the seams on shells and skirts. Another skirt, encrusted top-to-bottom in crystals, seemed altogether too precious to sit on. But silk jersey dresses, the architectural underlayers of which glittered with embroideries, will look effortlessly cool waltzing down the red carpet or shimmying on the gala circuit.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
