Richard Chai Love
February 08, 2006 New York
For the most part, crispness was out, draping was in. If the folds of Chai's cashmere wrap coats were cleverly arranged, other drapey separatessome with asymmetrical closingsseemed disheveled. But the main problem was the off-kilter proportions; shorts were strangely paired with long coats and jackets, and the boiled-wool pants were cuffed at a height that made them seem more shrunken than cropped. Nonetheless, a pair of bias-cut skinny pants in suiting fabric was undeniably sharp. Chai showed a new emphasis on evening, offering flowing silk rosette dressesin magenta, and a lovely smoky lilacwith romantic details at the back. But one missed the really wearable day clothes, often interpretations of classics, to which he usually gives a distinctive spin.