It takes some character to charm an audience with a cocktail collection at breakfast, but Roksanda Ilincic, twirling her stiff brocade volumes and tulle ruffles among the tea tables at Bibendum, managed that little miracle. This Serbian designer (yet another Central Saint Martins graduate) has garnered a faithful following who enjoys watching her increasingly confident, quirkily feminine ideas about what to wear to a party.

Ilincic is one of those designers who's in love with Balenciaga-type shapes. Her coats, with their tiered sleeves, swooping swing backs, and trapeze lines all echo fifties silhouettes, but there's something in their execution—a raw edge, a nutty pompom button—that makes them personal and modern. "I really wanted to push the shapes, to overexaggerate details like the volumes and pleating," she said of a collection hand-made by seamstresses in her hometown, Belgrade. Duchesse satin dresses, with twisted folds and odd asymmetries, and new pieces in light wool rounded out a collection that is becoming a highlight of London fashion week.