February 15, 2006 London
Ilincic is one of those designers who's in love with Balenciaga-type shapes. Her coats, with their tiered sleeves, swooping swing backs, and trapeze lines all echo fifties silhouettes, but there's something in their executiona raw edge, a nutty pompom buttonthat makes them personal and modern. "I really wanted to push the shapes, to overexaggerate details like the volumes and pleating," she said of a collection hand-made by seamstresses in her hometown, Belgrade. Duchesse satin dresses, with twisted folds and odd asymmetries, and new pieces in light wool rounded out a collection that is becoming a highlight of London fashion week.