Rick Owens
PARIS, February 26, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
With all those layers of wool felt, cashmere, and fur blanketing the runways in New York and Milan, this is Rick Owens' moment. Few designers do dark quite like he does, and he played to his strengths for fall with such items as an extraordinary, apocalyptic black puffer coat that looked as if it were sewn from an inflated life raft. Who knows if it¿ll float, but it hugged the torso like a dream, its lapels rising almost to the chin then cutting away just above the waist to a tapered back.Owens worked less statement-making fabrics into similar body-framing shapes. Some of his best jackets came in silvery linen inset with shrunken vests of peachy-gold washed leather. Those orchid-petal lapels he did last season? They've blossomed into double-breasted jackets.
The designer had stripped away some of his familiar goth affectations—notably, the models' ghostly white makeup—but he didn't stay away from that aforementioned dark side for long. It appeared in the form of felted wool boleros trimmed with ruffles of knit and worn over high-waist cropped pants, as well as in a series of almost minimal suits—the straight seams of which set them apart from his signature bias-cut fare. It also materialized in a trio of drapey black evening dresses. Slit down to there, the gowns' easy, billowing forms made a lovely counterpoint to the rigor of Owens' daywear.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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