February 25, 2006 Paris
Owens worked less statement-making fabrics into similar body-framing shapes. Some of his best jackets came in silvery linen inset with shrunken vests of peachy-gold washed leather. Those orchid-petal lapels he did last season? They've blossomed into double-breasted jackets.
The designer had stripped away some of his familiar goth affectationsnotably, the models' ghostly white makeupbut he didn't stay away from that aforementioned dark side for long. It appeared in the form of felted wool boleros trimmed with ruffles of knit and worn over high-waist cropped pants, as well as in a series of almost minimal suitsthe straight seams of which set them apart from his signature bias-cut fare. It also materialized in a trio of drapey black evening dresses. Slit down to there, the gowns' easy, billowing forms made a lovely counterpoint to the rigor of Owens' daywear.