February 20, 2006
At whom is 6267 aimed? "Tutto," enthused Tommaso Aquilano, who with partner Roberto Rimondi won Vogue's Who Is on Next competition last season. While 6267's fall collection (the line is named after the number Rimondi was assigned at summer camp) might not actually suit every woman, it had a lot to offerespecially for those with a taste for elegance and an eye for line. Spring's slim-leg, high-waist silhouette was back, and mixed in with the more tailored pants in menswear fabrics was this season's resurgent staple, leggings. The latter could be read as an acknowledgement of the designers' stated touchstones: an eighties sportiness and a fifties couture feeling. Clearly, Aquilano and Rimondi lean toward the earlier decade, as their curve-accentuating dresses and a strict black cape especially showed. Their attempts to forge a "younger look" with pleated and bubble skirts were less successful, but they were on track with sweet bead-speckled pleated dresses that hit well above the knee. Hands down, the showstoppers were the feather coats at the close of the show. Combining lightness and luxury, they suggested that 6267 is earning its wings.