It was the largest collection Sophia Kokosalaki has shown on a Paris runway—a full-fledged run-through from short, belted, multi-collared coats to capes, leather bombers, gray tweed cocoon parkas, cocktail bustiers, and old-gold lamé plissé dresses. It all served to demonstrate how strong she is, both in self-knowledge (sticking to the essentials of her personal taste) and in her awareness of the general direction of fashion. "I never have any one reference any more," she said. "But there was something a bit royal in there that somehow ended up going via glam rock—which is OK by me!"

Kokosalaki's look always turns on a slightly hard New Order-ish eighties vibe that segues, somewhere along the line, into feminine Grecian draping and pleating. This season, she concentrated on developing the layered cuts that other designers are also showing, making complex swathed high collars, putting a peeled-back cuff on the leg of a high platform boot and articulating movement into the components of a slick brown trench. Those, and her body-molded leather bustier dresses, showed her stricter, urban side, while the Greek girl in Kokosalaki worked up silver organza pleating and draped lamé goddess dresses. Taken apart, there are plenty of great pieces in here—and taken as a whole, it's further indication that she is edging up the rankings as an independent designer with a voice of her own.