Sophia Kokosalaki
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 1, 2006
By Sarah Mower
It was the largest collection Sophia Kokosalaki has shown on a Paris runway—a full-fledged run-through from short, belted, multi-collared coats to capes, leather bombers, gray tweed cocoon parkas, cocktail bustiers, and old-gold lamé plissé dresses. It all served to demonstrate how strong she is, both in self-knowledge (sticking to the essentials of her personal taste) and in her awareness of the general direction of fashion. "I never have any one reference any more," she said. "But there was something a bit royal in there that somehow ended up going via glam rock—which is OK by me!"Kokosalaki's look always turns on a slightly hard New Order-ish eighties vibe that segues, somewhere along the line, into feminine Grecian draping and pleating. This season, she concentrated on developing the layered cuts that other designers are also showing, making complex swathed high collars, putting a peeled-back cuff on the leg of a high platform boot and articulating movement into the components of a slick brown trench. Those, and her body-molded leather bustier dresses, showed her stricter, urban side, while the Greek girl in Kokosalaki worked up silver organza pleating and draped lamé goddess dresses. Taken apart, there are plenty of great pieces in here—and taken as a whole, it's further indication that she is edging up the rankings as an independent designer with a voice of her own.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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