February 28, 2006 Paris
Kokosalaki's look always turns on a slightly hard New Order-ish eighties vibe that segues, somewhere along the line, into feminine Grecian draping and pleating. This season, she concentrated on developing the layered cuts that other designers are also showing, making complex swathed high collars, putting a peeled-back cuff on the leg of a high platform boot and articulating movement into the components of a slick brown trench. Those, and her body-molded leather bustier dresses, showed her stricter, urban side, while the Greek girl in Kokosalaki worked up silver organza pleating and draped lamé goddess dresses. Taken apart, there are plenty of great pieces in hereand taken as a whole, it's further indication that she is edging up the rankings as an independent designer with a voice of her own.