Central Saint Martins
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 18, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Central Saint Martins' M.A. degree show is always good, but the Class of 2006 exploded onto the London runway with such a sustained display of individual excellence (19 collections and not a dud among them) that the graduation presentation became the spectacle of the week. The headhunters who fish this elite international fashion gene pool scribbled constantly, checking names from Britain, Scandinavia, Israel, Japan, Germany, and Eastern Europe. Anna-Sara Davik reinvented the humble nylon mackintosh with whooshing ruffles and a floating train. Leili Morshed draped jersey into chic gray wool dresses. Alexis Giboin cut navy and black taffeta into scallop-edged, big-sleeved silhouettes, cinched with enameled owls. And Lisa Pritchard printed gold and silver lamé into multilayered tiers of fan pleats.If there were trends, they were in the collective fascination for folds, knots, and pleats, and for experimenting with the classic trench (Molly Grad, Diasuke Okuyama, Lisa Pritchard). But it was the sheer conviction of these graduate students that was truly impressive. Menswear designer Dennis Jansson, for one, sent out such a believable gang of dirty-denimed bikers that they might've parked their Harleys outside. As for the prizes in this vintage year, they were swept up by Christopher Kane. The 23-year-old Glaswegian showed a series of extraordinary short dresses made from intricately worked frills, stretch lace, and lashings of nylon jingling with gold rings—a look that pushed good/bad taste to a whole new frontier. Afterward, Kane's pieces were shipped directly to Harrods, where they will be stopping window-shopping tourists in their tracks throughout the week. The next generation of young British fashion—crazed with creativity and boasting an astonishing level of professionalism—has just taken off.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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