Strenesse

NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Tucked as it was between Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan on the last afternoon of New York fashion week, the Strenesse show could've been a nonevent. But Gabriele Strehle rewarded the minimalist faithful with a quietly luxe collection short on the week's omnipresent ornamentation, and long on smartly tailored suits and coats, some in oversize houndstooth, as well as layered cashmeres. With a series of wide knit bands—cummerbunds, if you will—in colors that contrasted with the turtlenecks with which they were paired, the Munich-based designer made a persuasive argument for a knit you never knew you needed. But when she dabbled in ornamentation, as she did with floral-embroidered organza skirts and tank dresses, she lost her way, and her audience.

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