February 03, 2006
Fall meant a new name and something of a new attitude for the As Four collective. (They added the "Three" prefix, said Gabi, "out of respect for [ex-partner] Kai and for a fresh start.") The collectiondramatically presented on models standing on slowly rotating platforms at Deitch Projectswas not a total departure. There were lots of As Four signaturesseaweed-like ruffles and curved seams, to name two. But they were applied with a refreshing lightnessand also introduced, surprisingly, to such wardrobe staples as a hooded trench, a denim suit (shown with a curious pink tendril accessory), and even a caramel-color wrap dress.
Adi, Ange, and Gabi approached evening with their usual bewitching gusto. A mustardy chiffon minidress had wonderful magenta-trimmed petal sleeves, a bias-cut cocoa column dress featured a chiffon cape back, and the fuchsia ruffled halter-top finale gown had a dramatically low, bare back. There were some heavy momentsthe knits, for example, looked a bit saggyand there was a surfeit of frills, but the collection was mostly focused and accessible.