Tao
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 5, 2006
By Sarah Mower
Tao Kurihara's talent lies in her way of gently tweaking a single idea—turning out small, cutely formed high-concept collections, blissfully innocent of confrontational angst. This time, the well-chosen subject of her miniature treatise was "Stoles," Kurihara swathed her girls in all manner of prettily crumpled tiers and ruffles of cotton, lace, and tulle. Walking in socks, and the occasional pair of velvet pajama bottoms, the models looked as if they'd just woken from a lovely dream to pad around the room in dye-dunked cloaks, capes, wraps, and scarves whipped up from old-fashioned frilly bed coverings.Part of the artily homespun magic is in the tie-dyed colors—dappled pinks, peaches, violets, and blues, eventually turning to cream and solid black. Another attraction is Kurihara's sensitivity to silhouette and romance. If you want volume and drama, her more avant-garde pieces—like her opera capes, cut in concentric circles of lace and velvet—have a delicacy akin to something out of a Tissot painting of Parisienne jeune filles. What really makes Kurihara a designer to watch, though, is the way her feminine instinct makes her think out practical applications for her poetics. The designer's tulle-frilled neck-wraps compressed all the prettiness of the collection into a single accessory: a scarf a girl can realistically just shove into a coat, before getting going—with a sense of delight—for the day.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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