Temperley London
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 10, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Alice Temperley's second New York outing began with giant white doors swinging open to reveal—in a puff of smoke—Trish Goff standing under a chandelier in a trim gray velvet suit. It was a confident start that suggested the popular British designer was ready to stretch beyond dresses for fall, and she did, with a selection of chic jackets: A slate-gray forties style and a printed, quilted example showed the designer's decorative touch deftly applied to tailored pieces.But it's the dresses over which those jackets were worn that remain the mainstay of this label. As always, there were some intarsia sweater dresses, which this season came extra-short and trimmed with sweet scallops at the hem and neckline. Scene-stealers, though, were the pieces featuring the remarkable, often handcrafted embellishment with which this designer made her name. (Her talent is in the details, best appreciated close-up.)
Overall, Temperley's sophomore show was a sister to her spring one. Although the collection showed an awareness of current trends, with light bubble dresses and forties references, the decoration changed more than the concept—which has, after all, been proven to work.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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