TSE
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 6, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
Augustine Tse's cashmere company has been through a number of identities in the past few years as designers Hussein Chalayan and Richard Chai have passed though its doors. Fall marks the debut of Tess Giberson, a RISD graduate known for conceptual, hand-worked clothes. Her collection was aptly named Protection; it opened with a quilted wrap that suggested warm, embracing comfort and set the tone for much of what followed. The clothes looked inviting—who wouldn't want to be wrapped in a long, hand-knit cable cardigan, worn alluringly over a thin scoop-neck tank? Or how about keeping out the cold in the season's requisite shearling coat, shown here in white?Giberson showed a number of short, sexy dresses, which were elegantly accessorized with TEM chain jewelry. Less successful were the loose stockings—seen at Prada last spring—which crinkled down into cherry-red patent shoes by Christian Louboutin. Throughout the show, there was a tension between the seductive (a knitted lace evening dress) and the safe (kilt-like side-pleated skirts). This suggested that Giberson hasn't entirely come to grips with this label's essential dilemma: Is it for a deep-pocketed customer seeking updates of classics, or the more fashion-forward woman? And certainly some will question whether she was progressive enough or has injected enough of her own sensibility into the designs. But there was no denying the craftsmanship. She was creative in pushing the boundaries of what can be done with cashmere; knitting it into puckers, cables, and lace, showing it superfine, even beaded—but always luxe.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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