Tuleh
NEW YORK, February 5, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
The enigmatic Bryan Bradley provided just a handful of clues as to what his show was about, dropping references to Vassar girls, Edie "Grey Gardens" Beale, and a stranger with matched suitcases. In the end though, it didn't matter so much who the characters were that populated Bradley's imagination; what counted was that they inspired one of his prettiest shows to date.There was a definite East Coast patrician feel to the collection, which opened with "Vassar Girls" in slim forties-style pencil skirts that hit below the knee, and continued with "Suitcase Girls" in cinched-waist coats. Luxe is Bradley's catchword, and his furs, often combining species, were especially alluring. A white corsage-trimmed jacket and stole was costumey, but in an intriguing Hollywood-studio-days kind of way. The same could not be said of some of the feather flourishes, however.
Bradley's favorite ornaments for fall were outsize rosettes and generous bows, and his prints, as usual, were mainly florals. Such decorative tendencies notwithstanding, there was an overall feeling of restraint. This was evident in a brown monk's dress and, to a somewhat lesser extent, in an oil-black satin sleeveless dress and an ivory stand-collar one. A geometric red coat in the "Strangers" section missed the mark, though.
Moodier than spring's collection, this show was also more tightly focused. If Bradley was inspired by an "exotic and distinguished" stranger, loyal Tuleh fans—each of whom found a handwritten note on her chair—will find the quality and loveliness of this collection reassuringly familiar.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
