February 02, 2006 New York
The male influence (specifically, the designers had "dandy street kids" and the style of post-punk Brit singers like the Jam's Paul Weller and Echo and the Bunnymen's Ian McCulloch in mind) was felt in the choice of fabrics and the styling. A houndstooth jacket and pants had a mannish, eighties-style, dress-for-success feeling. The show's focus also led to some untenable items. Suspendered pouf skirts, for example, showed more attention to theme than wearability.
There was a concerted effort to play with volume throughout. Spring's sweet bib-front dresses were transformed for fall into baggy oversize ones, including a standout black number worn by Michaela. And among the highlights of the show were the opening bubble coats. Dramatic in their shape, heft, and texture, they filtered in a modern way the work of Cristobal Balenciaga and the Japanese designers who first showed in Paris in the (real) eighties.