Undercover
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 27, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
What is it about models' faces that designers want to hide? First Viktor & Rolf had their girls don fencing masks; then, later at La Cigale, Undercover's Jun Takahashi shrouded his in pierced, studded, and chain-covered headdresses that evoked medieval armor (as well as—a shade more sinisterly—prisoners in hoods). While they were in keeping with the wrapping and bandaging motifs that held together such dissimilar looks as knit tuxedo jackets and inside-out parkas, the masks were ultimately a distraction, and they even caused a few of the anonymous mannequins to stumble blindly into the audience. Luckily, though, the punk theatrics didn't entirely conceal the fact that the Tokyo-based Takahashi had come up with some deceptively commercial clothes.Take, for starters, a creamy silk camisole with ruffle streamers descending both sides of the torso, a camel jacket with frogging decorating the front placket, cuffs, and rear vent, or an asymmetric tiered black chiffon shirt. In a season of protective layering, Takahashi proved himself a virtuoso here. What looked like a sweater casually thrown over a shoulder revealed itself to be a bolero. Later, the iridescent feathers of a cocoon top parted to display a down-to-earth puffer vest. Other pieces were even more playful. A leather stole morphed into a chain-handle coin purse that perched below the shoulder, and a spiral-seamed dress was embellished with chandelier-size crystals, which will make it tricky to sit still. Not that this energetic designer has that on his agenda.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
