The rest of fashion may be preoccupied with the cocoon and trapeze shapes he proposed in his breakout spring collection, but Giambattista Valli has moved on. Today he explored a cut he only touched upon last season: a mid-calf-length skirt of almost New Look proportions. Perhaps by way of contrast, he also introduced its diametric opposite, the hobble. In the former, models sashayed freely around a hall on the upper floor of the Musée de l'Homme, a venue boasting stunning views of the Eiffel Tower. In the latter, not the easiest style to strut a runway in, they had all the time in the world to admire the vista.

If wearabilty wasn't always foremost in Valli's mind, artistry was. Take one radzimir sheath, the face-framing ruffles of which trailed along a neckline that dipped to the lower back, suggesting angel's wings. Feathers were a recurring motif. They trimmed the thigh-high hem of a showgirl's orange sequined minidress, and more subtly, were layered from waist to hem on a slim skirt worn with a slouchy V-neck sweater.

Day-for-night dressing was another theme at play. What interests Valli, and what he excels at, is dressing a woman who never dresses down. After eight, it's gold bugle beads; before, it's a camel cashmere jacket with crystals the size of cell-phone screens glittering at her neck.