Veronique Branquinho
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 1, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
With her subdued, dark show, Veronique Branquinho joined a growing group of designers using the tuxedo as a fall leitmotif. Trust the Belgian designer not to play it straight, though. At the beginning, a model came out in tails and men's trousers, a delicate silver chain strung across the lapels serving as the look's one womanly touch. By the end, she had a model wearing a slim, knee-length black skirt, the back of which resembled the bottom of that earlier tail coat. And in between, there were plenty more of these intriguing if sometimes overly fussy conceits: an elongated striped vest over matching pants that looked more like an apron dress from behind; neckties made from shining chain mail; and satin girdles topping button-down shirts and peeking out above boyish pants.The play between masculine and feminine is hardly unfamiliar territory for Branquinho. For her men's show in January, she presented his and her versions of trench coats, furs, and Aran knits. So it was surprising that the fit was sometimes off, as it was on a standup-collar cropped jacket and a pair of elaborate pants with part of a vest seemingly attached at the waistband like a sort of makeshift cummerbund. Where she looked more assured was with her fine knits and a pair of silk velvet dresses, one in emerald, the other champagne, the back zippers of which were shown provocatively unzipped. They weren't complicated, and that's what made them so sexy.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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