Verrier
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 4, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
For her debut last season, Ashleigh Verrier, a Parsons grad and one-time Proenza Schouler intern, showed a breezy yet sophisticated 12-piece collection that referenced early American sportswear. Fall also found her looking back in time, in particular to fashion's favorite surrealist, Elsa Schiaparelli, whom she admires because "she wasn't afraid to experiment." You can't blame a young designer like Verrier for wanting to do the same, though the result was a presentation that wasn't as tightly focused as her first outing.There were some charming silky dresses and blouses delicately embroidered with a bow motif, a nod to the trompe l'oeil bow sweater that was Schiaparelli's first claim to fame. Verrier also nailed thirties glamour, another of her stated influences, with a smoking ensemble and a dramatic long black silk gown with Swarovski crystals. At other times, though, she went too far (or perhaps not far enough). Cape jackets and pencil skirts that extended to the rib cage heavily cited vintage pieces, but without the crucial adjustments that would have rendered them modern.
Sophomore shows are notorious stumbling blocks for designers, and the issue here seemed to be an overabundance of inspirations. In addition to Schiap and the thirties, Verrier bandied about the twenties, F. Scott Fitzgerald's The Beautiful and the Damned, sailor blouses, even eighties-era Versace. It's no wonder that the collection occasionally looked confused. Still, Verrier's ingenuity was evident in dresses that looked like two-piece tops and skirts, and her attention to detail, as seen in the fine beading on collars, the rope embroidery on a jacket, and the floral velvet trim edging a coat, showed sensitivity and skill.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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