Vivienne Westwood
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 28, 2006
By Nicole Phelps
Vivienne Westwood was made a Dame of the British Empire last month by Queen Elizabeth II, and she's one of just a handful of designers due to be fêted at the upcoming AngloMania exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum's Costume Institute, but she hasn't given up on her trademark brand of rebellious dishabille. Tartans, bustiers, toga wrapping, and Edwardian pannier skirts—all essential elements of the Westwood vocabulary—came fast and furious down her wooden-plank catwalk on models with glossy red lips and tousled upswept hair. The layered-up looks had a disheveled, madcap appeal in which Westwood, who took to the runway with her tiny rhinestone horns firmly in place, clearly revels.If at first glance it's harder for her audience to enjoy, or understand, they need only take it apart to discover some real, wearable pieces. Sure to please her loyal acolytes were the slouchy suede booties, the bustled skirts with unfinished hems, and the little cardigans (of course, she had the models wearing them backward, buttons askew). A navy silk corseted top, meanwhile, might win Westwood some new fans. Those plaid jackets and coats with the fin shoulders, however, will be a harder sell. And it's doubtful that you'll be seeing any of the hologram ball gowns or harem suits at the Costume Institute ball come May.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
