February 04, 2006
Hanii Yoon and Gene Kang's fall show was not really about any prevailing trend; instead, it sought to showcase their dedication to fine workmanship and love of luxe fabrics. The result was a very pretty if sometimes aimless presentation. Kang said that he and his wife had been playing with the idea of "odd," by which he meant potentially unlikely pairings, such as an ultra-feminine chiffon and lace jabot blouse with blue wool slim pants. There's nothing particularly novel about that approach, but if you looked past the concept, there were some lovely pieces here, especially for a girl who likes to dress up. For her, Yoon and Kang designed a host of covetable cocktail dresses, like a twenties number in navy charmeuse with caviar-beaded Poiret roses that would be perfect for a museum benefit, or a chiffon dinner dress that was the essence of discretion. (Next to these, a silver lamé goddess jersey gown looked out of place.) There were standout tailored pieces, too. A wool satin double-breasted trench had an icy shimmer, and a black-and-silver jacket, nipped at the waist and puffed at the sleeve, was sharply cut. But in the end, the point of this collection was that parade of romantic, ornately detailed dresses.