The movie-poster-style invitation to Y-3's fall presentation claimed "the most chilling show ever" was in store. Hence the moody, cinematic set—complete with a broken window, Hitchcockian crows, and a gnarled tree—that greeted the audience at the Roseland nightclub. But the collection failed to provide the "thrilling sensation" that was also promised.

Owned by Adidas and designed in part by Yohji Yamamoto, Y-3 was conceived as an active-sportswear line, but there have since been efforts to reposition it as a fashion brand. Growing pains were evident today, and—like the wardrobe of a moody teenager—almost all the clothes were black. These ranged from schoolgirl kilts worn with oxford shirts and hoodies to leather jackets that topped vixenish second-skin jeans. Looking for Yamamoto in the clothes can be frustrating. Yes, the paper-bag-waisted skirts from last spring reappeared, and the opening pea coat had a sophisticated cut, but overall the collection felt like an attempt to determine how many different ways the Adidas and Y-3 logos can be splashed about (they were applied to everything from tweed boots to mohair shawls).

Still, a few pieces were worth seeking out, including a curve-seamed cardigan, a cute mini with a built-in cuff detail, and an activewear ensemble in royal blue that suggested fashion and sports can meet. Y-3 has potential (those covetable separates, that sporty vibe), but first it will have to get over its identity crisis.