Y-3
NEW YORK, February 8, 2006
By Laird Borrelli
The movie-poster-style invitation to Y-3's fall presentation claimed "the most chilling show ever" was in store. Hence the moody, cinematic set—complete with a broken window, Hitchcockian crows, and a gnarled tree—that greeted the audience at the Roseland nightclub. But the collection failed to provide the "thrilling sensation" that was also promised.Owned by Adidas and designed in part by Yohji Yamamoto, Y-3 was conceived as an active-sportswear line, but there have since been efforts to reposition it as a fashion brand. Growing pains were evident today, and—like the wardrobe of a moody teenager—almost all the clothes were black. These ranged from schoolgirl kilts worn with oxford shirts and hoodies to leather jackets that topped vixenish second-skin jeans. Looking for Yamamoto in the clothes can be frustrating. Yes, the paper-bag-waisted skirts from last spring reappeared, and the opening pea coat had a sophisticated cut, but overall the collection felt like an attempt to determine how many different ways the Adidas and Y-3 logos can be splashed about (they were applied to everything from tweed boots to mohair shawls).
Still, a few pieces were worth seeking out, including a curve-seamed cardigan, a cute mini with a built-in cuff detail, and an activewear ensemble in royal blue that suggested fashion and sports can meet. Y-3 has potential (those covetable separates, that sporty vibe), but first it will have to get over its identity crisis.
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Fall 2006 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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A.F. Vandevorst ADAM Akris Alberta Ferretti Alessandro Dell'Acqua Alexander McQueen Alexandre Herchcovitch Alice Roi Andrew Gn Anna Sui Ann Demeulemeester Antonio Berardi Aquascutum Araks -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Basso & Brooke BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Boudicca Brian Reyes Brioni Burberry Prorsum -
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Calvin Klein Carolina Herrera Celine Central Saint Martins Chado Ralph Rucci Chaiken Chanel Chloé Christian Dior Christian Lacroix Comme des Garçons Costello Tagliapietra Costume National -
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D&G Daryl K Derek Lam Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Dries Van Noten Dsquared² -
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Elie Saab Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emma Cook Emporio Armani Erdem Etro -
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Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Hermès Hussein Chalayan -
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J. Mendel Jasmin Shokrian Jean Paul Gaultier Jenni Kayne Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Junya Watanabe -
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Kai Kühne Karl Lagerfeld Kenneth Cole New York Kenzo -
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Lacoste Lanvin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella -
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Maison Martin Margiela Malandrino Malo Marc by Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs Marios Schwab Marni Martin Grant Matthew Williamson MaxMara Menichetti Michael Kors Missoni Miu Miu Monique Lhuillier Moschino -
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Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicolas Andreas Taralis Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paco Rabanne Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Som Phi Pollini Prada Preen Proenza Schouler -
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Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rochas Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stella McCartney Strenesse Sweetface -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tory Burch Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Verrier Versace Viktor & Rolf Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
