From the very first look—a navy peacoat with outsize shoulder pads—you could tell things were going to be different chez Zac Posen. Gone were the frills, the flou, the colors, and in their place were nipped waists and flaring short skirts (thank you, Azzedine Alaïa), as well as the aforementioned shoulders (merci, Thierry Mugler). Posen isn't the only designer riffing on those eighties icons of late, but he's done it with the most authority, and it was somehow fitting that he had that contemporary glamazon, Uma Thurman (the biggest celebrity coup of the week so far), in his front row.

In the past, Posen has shied away from daywear; practical matters just didn't gel with his take-no-prisoners design aesthetic. His new velvet knit blazer and skirt are certainly office-ready, though, even if there's nothing tame about them. The same goes for the sexy secretary's white umbrella-pleat blouse and navy pencil skirt. For evening, Posen turned out one hourglass silhouette after another, in silver lamé, black faille, and embossed leather. Despite some out-of-step looks, such as two shapeless shifts midshow and a trio of grandstanding finale gowns, this was a strong outing for the designer. Fashion's It boy is growing up.