January 29, 2007 Paris
But it was the Slimane slant that booted the show out of the past and into a possible future. It wasn't so much the new pant proportiona dhotilike dropped crotch that made his boys look like Gandhi dandiesas the stunning sequence of jackets. A satin-lapelled tweed blazer was the simplest. There was geometric metallic stitching on one jacket, lacquer splashed à la Jackson Pollock drippage on another. And, best of all, a candy-colored fiesta of bugle beads that, for the second time during this Paris season, suggested an almost Garland-esque specter hovering over the outer reaches of men's fashion.
The finale also emphasized the jacket in gray flannel or pinstripes, but the collection's signal item was possibly a long overshirt, which floated out from underneath shorter jackets and waistcoats. It created an illusion of tails, the formality of which is purest Hedi, but given here a lightness and fluidity that hinted at a new ease for the designer.