Trenchcoat in chocolate Barenia calfskin, blouson with hood in brown patinated baby lambskin, straight blouson in storm matte crocodile…the running order for an Hermès show can sound like a recipe for excess. In reality, the clothes are rendered in such seductive, state-of-the-art luxury as to be irresistible. Take that unutterably alluring aforementioned crocodile blouson. From the runway, it had the power to make all but the strictest ascetic surrender to its siren call.

For Hermès, that luxury scarcely stops at skins. Rigor and sensuality, the twin poles of the collection as defined by the show notes, were represented by the layers of sober-toned cashmere and vicuna in which twenty-first-century masters of the universe would undoubtedly choose to face the world. The label's technical mastery is such that black corduroy trousers gleamed like satin, as did a tuxedo in a glazed wool. Subtle but showy, Hermès remains sui generis.