Today's collection marked both the tenth anniversary of Johan Lindeberg's brand and a creative departure for the designer. He declared his ambition to bring his signature line to "a new level of luxury and personal expression," and it turned out that wasn't just marketing speak. Gone from the runway were his skinny jeans and updated athletic wear (they'll continue to fulfill a lucrative role at diffusion level). In their place was an unexpected play with proportion and volume. Lindeberg showed high-waisted, button-fly, loose-legged pants; long shirts layered under cropped jackets and pea coats; an elongated patent bomber jacket; and sweeping greatcoats. He may not be the first designer you'd count on to make such a concerted, persuasive case against the tyranny of lean, but for Lindeberg, thin is clearly no longer in.

Executed in grays, blacks, and muted greens and pulled together by stylist Alistair Mackie's brilliant touches—heavy boots, wool watch caps worn pushed back on the models' heads, silver bead necklaces at the throat—the clothes had a sort of new-wave vagabond feel. (The menswear was paired with a handful of Goth-glam women's outfits by Lindeberg's wife Marcella.) Johan himself described today's look as a mix between "a French artist and Manchester in the eighties." And with this cohesive, well-executed outing, he showed that he's ready to embark on a new order.