February 04, 2007
The view from the top floor of 7 World Trade Center was the best
backdrop any fashion show has ever had: a crystal-clear panorama of
New York at night that was so timeless it could have been yesterday,
today, or tomorrow. It was a hard act for the clothes to follow, but,
to his credit, John Varvatos produced a collection loaded with
character. And he could've used a few more characters to show the
clothes onthe sound track of old bluesmen made one hanker for the tough cookies that Yohji Yamamoto dredges up as a complement to his designs. Varvatos treated classic fabrics to imbue them with a previous life, cut them into classic shapes, and styled them up into interesting outfits, but his models didn't always have the seasoning to project the story. That aside, several itemsa glossy, fitted ponyskin blazer, a leather-trimmed pinstripe jacket, a washed-wool pea coatleapt off the catwalk. And the way the designer deconstructs a clichéoffering a tux, say, in gray with a mushroom satin lapelwill always win kudos.
The secondary U.S. line with which Varvatos always wraps up his show
played out against a backdrop of the Statue of Liberty flashing the
peace sign. Perhaps he was dreaming that politically active college
boys were the constituency for the preppy/punk hybrid he proposed. In their black wigs, the models were intended to evoke rocker Jesse
Malin, whom Varvatos was pushing in his press kit (along with Velvet
Revolver). Designer as proselytizing music fanone more reason for kudos.