Miu Miu menswear is something of a paradox at the moment: The more focused and distinctive the collection becomes, the harder it is to find. Parent Prada cryptically promises "big projects" in the years ahead, but this season Miuccia opted for a tightly edited showroom presentation that was an intimate as a Tupperware party. It allowed for an appreciation of the subtleties of the clothing in a way that recalled the coziness of a couture salon. In fact, the word "couture" came up, as an analogy for traditionally luxe menswear fabrics (navy and camel cashmere, wool and silk blends) used in an extremely experimental cut like the ergonomic trouser shape. The opposite also applied—technical materials used in classic cuts, namely an evening coat or a marronnier cut from neoprene.

But the essence of the collection was the hybridized formality that has been one of Milan's biggest stories this season. Almost everything was worn with a dressy white piqué-collared shirt or a version in blue banker's stripe, while the shoes were a patent leather marriage of wingtip and boxing boot. Actually, Miu Miu's signature spirit of willful youth lingered on in that combination (as it did in cropped corduroys, skinny jackets, or the cropped, double-breasted hooded cardigan jacket), but there was a newly adult flare to a navy cashmere overcoat or a sleek leather caban with technical detailing, suggesting that one of those future "big projects" is likely to be a concerted reintroduction of this brand on a much bigger scale.