January 25, 2007 Paris
"Honi soit qui mal y pense" was Branquinho's theme. Don't laugh. It's the motto of the oldest knighthood in the world, Britain's Most Noble Order of the Garter, and it means "Shamed be he who thinks evil of it." Maybe the designer was anticipating criticism. Prince Charles is the numero uno Knight of the Garter, and he might be the right customer for these clothesexcept that in reality he'd never opt a pair of Branquinho's zipped-ankle trousers or her pinstriped jacket with a knitted lapel.
As it happened, this last item showed that the designer has the ability to mutate the classics so that they resonate in the here and now. On the other hand, it was hard to know what to make of a bottle-green velour sweatshirt with Lurex-striped cuffs. Such an item might have descended from Planet Abba, and it was hard not to think shameful thoughts about it.