January 27, 2007
As anyone who has visited a Saint Laurent boutique recently will know, Stefano Pilati has a way with a desirable item. His catwalk concepts seem to blossom once they hit store racks. With his new men's collection, Pilati managed to bring a similar sense of irresistibility back home to the runway. After the show, he used the word "opulence," and a mink sweatshirt, pony blouson, or sweeping black coat with lining quilted in gold had obviously opulent connotations (while being well in keeping with the designer's affection for the decadent ambiguities of the Saint Laurent legacy). But the collection also showed itself in a less literal wayin the exploded dimensions of its tailoring. From the first outfit, with its oatmeal overcoat buttoned high and billowing away like a cape, jackets and coats were voluminous, with soft, dropped shoulders. And their shape was emphasized by narrow, cropped trousers which were shown with both jumbo brothel creepers and sleek little car shoes (now, there's a choice for you!). Pilati claimed an undercurrent of the eighties in the oversize"It's me!" he said. Equally him was his other pants option: full, deep-pleated, wide-cuffed. He also showed a new facility with outerwear, which ran the broadest gamut, from an inky nylon coat to a gray wool duffel to a red raglan. Can't wait for those racks.