February 06, 2007 New York
The proportion plays that typify Yohji's workshort over long, long over longershowed up in a herringbone suit with cropped drawstring pants, or a huge ribbed cardigan over a full-length kilt over olive drab pants. Kilt? Perhaps "skirt" would be more appropriate for the wrapped items that Yohji showed. Maybe he was drawing on the same Japanese source of inspiration as Thom Browne earlier in the week. The designer's fascination with Edwardiana was evident in an awning-striped double-breasted jacket or breeches (even if they were shown in nylon). But it was quite clear that Y-3's bread and butter is not fashion but footwear. The endless march-past of trainers, high-tops, moon boots, and baskets compelled a paraphrase of that old line: Bet you can't pick just one or two or three.