March 02, 2007 Paris
But whereas the beginning of the show celebrated and intensified the female form, what followed went in a different direction and was a bit of a letdown by comparison. Milk-white dresses with biblike bodices made from built-up geometric layers of wool and spliced skirts molded to form wide bubble hems ignored and disguised the natural shapes beneath. The program notes referenced Brancusi, but the effect was more artificial, almost robotica theme reinforced by the poured-plastic back of another dress and the show's shiny patent half-moon necklaces. Bottom line: When Berardi tempered his tendency to overembellish and overwork things, he and his clothes were at their sexy best.