Andrew Gn
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, February 28, 2007
By Nicole Phelps
With Marisa Berenson sitting front-row in a red, rock-crystal-strewn Andrew Gn linen coat, the designer sent out looks extravagant even by his own lavish standards—a Fall collection that¿s sure to send Berenson and the rest of his loyal ladies rushing to his private atelier.Inspired by the early twentieth-century architect Josef Hoffmann and the interior designer Armand-Albert Rateau, the clothes had a Belle Époque opulence and a twenties shape—witness the feather-dusted frayed-organza capelets, the satin tunics and drop-waist numbers with jeweled necklines, and a bubble dress embroidered with fringes of gold chain.
The couture details came fast and furious: velvet passementerie on a kimono coat, a Byzantine jewel closure on a cardigan (to match the model¿s drop earrings), and tiny pheasant-feather collars on tweeds. There were bags, too: minaudières and exotic skins that the designer is launching in collaboration with Judith Leiber. And there were 12-ply funnel-neck cashmere sweaters, anything but understated.
It¿s a matter of course that Gn, a lover of excess, should have a tough time paring down the looks in his show, but—for all but his most faithful fans—a briefer lineup would make for a bigger impact.
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Fall 2007 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim 6267 -
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Badgley Mischka Balenciaga Balmain BCBG Max Azria Behnaz Sarafpour Betsey Johnson Biba Bill Blass Blumarine Bottega Veneta Brian Reyes Bruce Bruno Pieters Burberry Prorsum -
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D&G Daks by Giles Deacon Daryl K Dennis Basso Derek Lam Derercuny Diane von Furstenberg DKNY Dolce & Gabbana Donna Karan Doo.Ri Douglas Hannant Dries Van Noten Dsquared² Duro Olowu -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fashion East Fendi -
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Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Hamish Morrow Heatherette Hermès -
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Iceberg Isaac Mizrahi -
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J. Mendel Jason Wu Jean Paul Gaultier Jens Laugesen Jeremy Laing Jill Stuart Jil Sander John Galliano Jonathan Saunders Jovovich-Hawk Junya Watanabe Just Cavalli -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin La Perla Lela Rose Loewe Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria -
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Naeem Khan Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Naum Neil Barrett Nicole Miller Nina Ricci Noir -
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Oscar de la Renta -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Som Peter Soronen Phi Philosophy Pollini Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Rag & Bone Ralph Lauren Reem Acra Réyes Richard Chai Love Richard Nicoll Rick Owens Roberto Cavalli Rodarte Roksanda Ilincic Rue du Mail Ruffian -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Sari Gueron Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Stærk Stella McCartney -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Toni Maticevski Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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Valentino Vena Cava Vera Wang Veronique Branquinho Versace Viktor & Rolf Vionnet Vivienne Tam Vivienne Westwood VPL -
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Wunderkind -
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Y & Kei Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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