February 27, 2007 Paris
Inspired by the early twentieth-century architect Josef Hoffmann and the interior designer Armand-Albert Rateau, the clothes had a Belle Époque opulence and a twenties shapewitness the feather-dusted frayed-organza capelets, the satin tunics and drop-waist numbers with jeweled necklines, and a bubble dress embroidered with fringes of gold chain.
The couture details came fast and furious: velvet passementerie on a kimono coat, a Byzantine jewel closure on a cardigan (to match the model¿s drop earrings), and tiny pheasant-feather collars on tweeds. There were bags, too: minaudières and exotic skins that the designer is launching in collaboration with Judith Leiber. And there were 12-ply funnel-neck cashmere sweaters, anything but understated.
It¿s a matter of course that Gn, a lover of excess, should have a tough time paring down the looks in his show, butfor all but his most faithful fansa briefer lineup would make for a bigger impact.